Sunday, June 21, 2015

The Irrawaddy Magazine

The Irrawaddy Magazine


‘People Have to See What We Are Talking About’

Posted: 21 Jun 2015 09:06 AM PDT

Thant Myint-U, chairman of the Yangon Heritage Trust. (Photo: JPaing / The Irrawaddy)

Thant Myint-U, chairman of the Yangon Heritage Trust. (Photo: JPaing / The Irrawaddy)

Thant Myint-U was on Friday announced as the winner of the 2015 Fukuoka Grand Prize, a prestigious Japanese award recognizing achievements in Asian culture. As chairman of the Yangon Heritage Trust, Thant Myint-U has sought to preserve Rangoon's architectural legacy. For the US-born, Cambridge-educated historian and author of two acclaimed books on Myanmar, this mission is just part of a much wider vision: the transformation of Rangoon into a modern city that cherishes its past and its natural environment as it accommodates the needs of business and ordinary citizens.

In this interview with The Irrawaddy from October 2015, Thant Myint-U discusses the challenges that Rangoon faces as it tries to avoid the development pitfalls faced by many other Asian cities.

Let's imagine the future. What is your vision of Yangon in a decade?

I'd like to see a Yangon that is both modern and also protects its very special heritage—and takes advantage of its natural position, as well. What we have right now is a city that goes back hundreds of years. We have ancient monuments like Shwedagon. We have a very special collection still of colonial-era architecture. We have a very green city. We have two lakes, we have parks, and we have this amazing waterfront.

At the same time we need more modern development—we need more roads, bridges, airports, infrastructure and electricity. We need high-rise buildings, shopping centers, everything. What I want to see is a vision and a plan that combines all these things in the right way, learning lessons from others' experiences and avoiding some of the mistakes that have been made by other cities in the region.

Do you think this vision is achievable?

I think it is a big challenge. I think the good thing is that the Yangon government is also very committed to trying to find the right way forward. They have been working very closely with the Japanese aid agency JICA in developing a master plan for the city, but mainly for the infrastructure, sewage, sanitation, transport, all of these issues. I think they are also very aware of the need to try to protect some of the colonial-era buildings and to protect the views of the Shwedagon as well.

Having said that, there are hundreds of challenges. Right now the market incentives are all wrong in terms of trying to protect a lot of the old buildings. And we're entering into this period where there's enormous pressure on land, where land ownership is unclear, where different government agencies own different pieces of land.

I think the last big challenge is for the poor people in this city. I think one thing is to protect the old architecture, one thing is to make this city work for business, but it also has to work for ordinary people. The trick is how do you combine all of these things—a city that works for ordinary people, a city that works for business, and a city that is beautiful and attractive, and that can be really a great city going forward, as well.

Earlier this year, you gave a presentation to President U Thein Sein, and his response was very encouraging. So far, how much have you done and what is the current status of your project?

We have been part of a committee that includes us, the city government, and people from other industries to craft a zoning plan for the city. It's the first zoning plan for Yangon in a long time. That is now finished. We hope very much that this will be officially adopted. We are also looking at the possibility of a conservation law.

Separately with the encouragement of the President's Office, we are also starting a system of landmark plaques around the city. It can help tourists, but we also want it to help Myanmar people and people living here to really appreciate what has happened in these buildings. They forget all the Myanmar history that has taken place in these buildings. We are also trying to work with travel agencies to develop a project in a way that will also benefit people downtown.

How can you educate people to preserve and appreciate the heritage buildings?

The most important thing to convince people is visualization. People have to see what we are talking about. We've talked about it. We can write about it. But what we want to do in the next couple of months are really high-tech visualizations of what Yangon can look like in the future.

What makes Yangon unique?

There are many Asian countries that had very special architecture in the past, but almost all of that has been destroyed. Look at Bangkok, look at Jakarta and Singapore. Lee Kwan Yu said one of the big mistakes that he had made was destroying all the colonial architecture of the city.

[Besides its colonial architecture], Yangon has Shwedagon and Sule Pagoda [and other] great centuries-old monuments that will always be here. We still have a very green city, and then we have a city with rivers on three sides. We can make the waterfront not just an industrial area, but also a place that's accessible to people to walk and enjoy themselves.

The Yangon City Development Committee's heritage list includes about 189 buildings. Have you managed to update the list?

Actually I think it's 188. I think one's been destroyed over the past 10 to 15 years. The YCDC is committed to protecting the buildings on this list, but there is no law behind it. So the list needs to be updated, and it needs to be backed by law. Over the past year, we have been doing a survey of about 500 buildings downtown. We will try to decide what the criteria should be for including buildings on the list. Including public buildings is not too much of a problem—the issue will be how to include privately owned buildings and [deciding] what the regulations [should be] for privately owned buildings that are over 50 years old.

There is a national heritage law which covers structures over 100 years old. That is the only law. So in theory, the Secretariat, for instance, could be considered covered by that law, and there are penalties for anyone who damages these structures. But my understanding is that the law was really intended to cover archaeological sites, like Bagan, and not urban structures, which have special issues about them. So I think in the future, it would be good to move toward a national urban heritage law. But that will take years, I think.

So what we're hoping for is a local conservation law that [covers] both buildings on the list and buildings in conservation zones. Our zoning plan includes parts of downtown Yangon.

How confident are you that you will succeed?

I'm confident that we will at least achieve what we set out to do, which was to protect 30 or 40 iconic buildings. I'm quite confident that no one is going to destroy these buildings. And I'm quite confident that the views of Shwedagon will be protected. I think we've achieved that in partnership with the government. Whether we can protect many hundreds of other buildings, including privately owned buildings, remains questionable. Whether we can come up with a scheme that will benefit the poor and middle-income people living downtown and keep old communities intact is also a question mark. Whether we can integrate this work into a broader urban vision is still a work in progress. So I think we have a core achievement, but we still have to work very hard. And we still need to have very strong public support.

The post 'People Have to See What We Are Talking About' appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

Suu Kyi Vows Transparency With Candidates’ Asset Disclosures

Posted: 19 Jun 2015 11:06 PM PDT

Opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi speaks at start of the National League for Democracy party's executive committee meeting on Saturday in Rangoon. (Photo: Tin Htet Paing / The Irrawaddy)

Opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi speaks at start of the National League for Democracy party's executive committee meeting on Saturday in Rangoon. (Photo: Tin Htet Paing / The Irrawaddy)

RANGOON — Aung San Suu Kyi said Saturday that every member of her National League for Democracy (NLD) who wishes to contest in Burma's upcoming general election will have to declare their assets, as the party seeks to exercise transparency in the highly anticipated vote.

In a speech opening the NLD's executive committee meeting over the weekend in Rangoon, the opposition leader said her party would finalize its candidate list after deciding whether or not to compete in the November election.

Senior NLD members have repeatedly sent mixed messages on the party's intentions vis-à-vis joining the election, which democracy advocates hope will be Burma's first free and fair nationwide vote in 25 years.

Suu Kyi said NLD candidates would need to submit their movable and immovable assets, as well as those of their spouses' and any similar wealth that might be under their children's names. The disclosures will include bank account information and business interests, she said.

Prospective candidates will also be required to make a pledge to collaborate with the party if it feels further investigation into a candidate's wealth is needed.

"We just want to show that the NLD has transparency. If they can't reveal their assets, how can people rely on them?" the 70-year-old democracy icon told the 112 senior members of her party gathered for the meeting.

"We will do this because people who are going to work for the country have to be free from corruption. I want to know that a candidate is not interested in the good of themselves and their families but only for the country," Suu Kyi said.

"We will select our candidates [based on] to what extent they can work for the interests of the country in the long term. We have to think about not only Election Day, but beyond that day, to make Burma flourish."

Suu Kyi also emphasized that the country's stability is important before the elections, echoing a mantra of President Thein Sein in recent months, while seeming to warn that "instability" should not be used as a crutch to justify postponing the poll.

"Let me warn you, including the people and our party members, please don't try to derail the elections by reasoning that there is instability," she said.

"We want stability after the elections to allow our people's hopes to materialize."

The NLD's executive committee meeting will wrap up on Sunday.

The 2015 general election is expected in early November and will pit the NLD—if it ultimately decides to contest—against more than 80 parties in races for the Union Parliament and 14 regional legislatures. The NLD is likely to face its stiffest competition from the ruling Union Solidarity and Development Party (USDP), as well as parties representing the interests of ethnic minorities in regions where they represent large constituencies.

The post Suu Kyi Vows Transparency With Candidates' Asset Disclosures appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

Coffee Country

Posted: 19 Jun 2015 05:30 PM PDT

Click to view slideshow.

PYIN OO LWIN, Mandalay Division — Standing outside his home an hour's drive from the northern town of Pyin Oo Lwin, Ye Myint looks out on a view of rolling hills and imagines a greener, more prosperous future.

"This region could be the coffee capital of Myanmar," said the fifty-something who is banding together with other farmers in the north to try to take Myanmar's coffee profile to the next level.

Myanmar has grown coffee since the British introduced Arabica plants to Shan State. Today coffee plants are grown in numerous locations throughout the country, from Kachin State in the north to Mon State in the south, but on a relatively small scale and largely at the lower end of the business.

"It's a sad reality that we have fine raw materials here, but we're not producing many high-quality products," said Ye Myint.

Much of the country's coffee output consists of lower-grade Robusta beans for instant coffee and export. Better quality Arabica beans grown in Shan State and other locations are mainly sold to traders at the Myanmar-China border and elsewhere for low prices.

In order to try and kick start a new era, Ye Myint and other coffee farmers in Pyin Oo Lwin and Moe Gote in Mandalay Region, and Naung Cho and Ywar Ngan in Shan State, formed the Myanmar Coffee Association (MCA) last year.

Its members want to increase home-grown processing of beans to create higher-grade finished products, including specialty coffees.

They also hope that more coffee associations will spring up throughout the country, including in locations such as Kayin, Kachin and Kayah states, to help boost the industry, raise livelihoods and encourage competition.

This year, however, the MCA is trying out taking joint action among its members to protect prices. In 2014, the price for beans fell to 300 kyat per 0.65 kilogram, which did not cover some farmers' costs. Some didn't even bother to collect their harvest. So in 2015 the association members have agreed to set a standard price of 500-700 kyats per 0.65 kilo for their beans.

Moving forward in the emerging sector still involves a lot of trial and error.

Ye Myint was a farming novice when he began growing coffee using organic methods 16 years ago on 200 acres of land near Pyin Oo Lwin.

He has seen a lot of setbacks over the years, from his plants failing to thrive, to fires on the plantation. With some help from the state agricultural arm, he has conducted continuous testing of growing methods and plants.

The fact that the venture has often made losses hasn't dimmed his passion for the business.

"I just have to keep trying," he said, while walking amid some of his planted saplings that are tended to by migrant workers who earn between 2,500 and 5,000 kyat a day, depending on their qualifications.

MCA secretary Min Hlaing, who has a 40-acre coffee farm, estimates that the Pyin Oo Lwin area has around 5,000 acres under coffee, including some in tiny 5-acre plots owned by locals who also grow produce like strawberries and flowers.

That's still far short of the portion envisaged by the former military government when in 2002 it launched a plan to plant around two hundred thousand acres of coffee throughout the country, mainly in highland areas. Large swathes of land were seized or reallocated for the purpose, much of it still unused.

Last year Tin Maung, a union lawmaker from a constituency in Mandalay, said in parliament that about 18,000 acres are under coffee nationwide. Around Pyin Oo Lwin, much land earmarked for coffee remains idle in the hands of former military figures, a local said on condition of anonymity.

Deforestation in the area, including for the production of quick lime, is also taking a toll as the climate becomes hotter and drier.

Coffee growers say their businesses can help the environment, as they plant larger trees to provide shade for the coffee shrubs.

For now, the main challenge is to improve the product and find new markets. Ye Myint is completing a new processing plant for that purpose.

His fellow MCA member Soe Hlaing manages the 100-acre Myanmar Coffee Plantation company, which began its own processing in 2010.

After its products garnered interest at a food trade fair in South Korea, it is increasing yearly production of 13 tons by some 50 percent.

"Japanese and Korean dealers bought our products last year and liked them, so this year we aim to produce 20 tons," said Soe Hlaing.

This article originally appeared in the June 2015 issue of The Irrawaddy magazine.

The post Coffee Country appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

The Irrawaddy Business Roundup (June 20, 2015)

Posted: 19 Jun 2015 05:00 PM PDT

Danish wind company Vestas signed an agreement with local firm Zeya & Associates to explore the possibility of wind farms in southeastern Mon State. (Photo: Bogdan Cristel / Reuters)

Danish wind company Vestas signed an agreement with local firm Zeya & Associates to explore the possibility of wind farms in southeastern Mon State. (Photo: Bogdan Cristel / Reuters)

Danish Turbine-maker in Wind Farm Plan for Mon State

Burma could soon add more renewable power to its energy mix, as the world's largest producer of wind turbines signed an agreement with a local company to explore a wind farm project in Mon State.

Myriad plans for new power generation are being touted as Burma looks to meet rising demand for energy, with domestic industries expanding and electricity consumption increasing among the general population.

Some new gas-fired power plants have already come online, and more are in the works, taking advantage of the country's supply of natural gas from offshore fields. Other plans for hydroelectric dams and coal-fired power plants have garnered considerable resistance from local activists and environmental campaigners, however.

According to a statement from the Danish Embassy in Rangoon on Monday, new renewable energy could be coming to Mon State in the form of wind turbines. The statement said that Danish wind company Vestas signed an agreement with local firm Zeya & Associates on June 11.

"The partnership will initially focus on the development of wind energy in the south eastern region of Myanmar's Mon State and will establish the foundation for a long-term cooperation between the two partners," it said.

Few details were given about the project, and Vestas—which Bloomberg has called the largest wind turbine producer in the world—provides turbines for both offshore and onshore wind power projects.

"The country is facing the challenge of a rapidly increasing power demand and wind energy can provide a sustainable solution to energy security and at the same time a sound business case for investors," the statement added in a quote attributed to Vestas head of marketing for the Asia-Pacific and China.

The project's local partner, Zeya & Associates, is headed by Zeya Thura Mon, a Burmese businessman who is the local distributor for Thailand's Gunkul Engineering—which has also been linked to wind-power plans in Burma. Zeya Thura Mon's firm has branched out into importing consumer electronics and medical devices, and operates the Hlawga Power Plant, providing electricity to Rangoon.

According to UK-based consultancy the Oxford Business Group, the Burmese government is actively promoting wind energy, and has been seeking investment to develop the sector. However, current energy generation from wind is small, according to the group's The Report: Myanmar 2015.

"Among the small wind farms currently in operation are a 1.2-kW wind turbine in Kyauske Township, a 1.2-kW plant at the Government Technical High School in the Ayeyarwaddy region and a 3-kW wind turbine that belongs to the Ministry of Science and Technology," the Oxford Business Group said.

"In late 2013 power producers from China and Thailand revealed that they were doing feasibility studies for generating windmill-generated electricity in nine locations across Myanmar. According to MOEP, Thailand’s Gunkul Engineering Public Company will generate 2930 MW in its plants while Three Gorges Corporation of China aims to have a capacity of 1102 MW. The farms are expected to be operational in 2015 and will reach their maximum capacity by 2018."

Draft Companies Law Published for Consultation

Burma's Directorate of Investment and Companies Administration (DICA) has invited feedback on a new draft law intended to modernize business registration regulations in the country.

DICA has published a draft of the new Myanmar Companies Law on its website in both Burmese and English.

The Global New Light of Myanmar reported that the new law marked "the modernization of the country's century-old Companies Act 1914" and said the Asian Development Banks had assisted with the drafting.

"The DICA has sought consultation from businesspeople and members of the public to provide input on modernization of the new legislation by email, post or fax to its offices in Yangon, Nay Pyi Taw and Mandalay, as well as Shan and Mon states," the state-run newspaper said.

Of interest to overseas investors will be how the law deals with foreign ownership of companies. Currently, foreign companies—defined as any company with a foreign national holding any shares—are blocked from operating in certain sectors, and their ability to own land in Burma is highly restricted.

The draft says that foreign companies are those in which "an overseas corporation or other foreign person (or combination of them)" have a specific amount of ownership, suggesting that some foreign ownership of local companies will be allowed.

However, the current draft does not specify how much of a company may be foreign owned before the company is considered foreign under the law.

Daewoo Sell Off Denied, Despite CEO Walkout

South Korea's Daewoo International Corp insists it is not selling off its assets in Burma, according to an industry report, despite the company's CEO leaving the company this week after criticizing the touted sale.

Rumors of a sell-off swirled in the South Korean press amid a restructuring of Daewoo International initiated by its parent company, the massive steelmaker POSCO, also from South Korea.

Daewoo International has stakes in two offshore oil and gas blocks in Burmese waters, including the Shwe field, which began producing gas in 2013 and feeds the Chinese-built Shwe Gas Pipeline linking the Arakan State coast with China's Yunnan province.

The site Rigzone reported this week that the company is insisting the sale is no longer on the cards. The industry news site quoted an unnamed Daewoo International official saying: "It’s not going to happen. POSCO have decided not to sell the gas fields [in Burma]."

Reports have said the parent company hoped to make some $1.3 billion from the sale. However opponents, including Daewoo International's CEO, Jeon Byeong Eal, argued that the company was better off holding on to the project, which reportedly earns Daewoo International some $350 million annually.

According to website Business Korea, the company announced that Jeon would be replaced by Vice President Choi Jung-woo following a board meeting Tuesday.

The Korea Herald newspaper reported that Jeon explained that he resigned as he felt his opposition to the plan had led to a loss of confidence among shareholders.

"Having thought about what would be the future-oriented measure for the group, the company and all those concerned, I concluded that resigning is the quickest way to end the situation," Jeon said, according to the Korea Herald.

Workshop Hopes to Extend Credit to Burma's SMEs

The growth of Burma's small- and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) is being restricted by a lack access to finance, according to the Asian Development Bank, which is running an event to address the issue in Rangoon this week.

"SMEs are the backbone of the private sector in Myanmar—accounting for over 90% of companies and over 70% of employment," said a statement marking the start of the four-day workshop run by the ADB in collaboration with the Myanmar Banks Association.

"However the sector has been hampered by a lack of access to finance, partly because of restrictive collateral requirements, but also because of a lack of capacity among local banks to assess and manage operational and credit risks for smaller businesses."

The workshop is intended to encourage Burma's banks to lend more to SMEs, with staff from 19 local banks, as well as from the Central Bank, expected to attend.

"Participating bank loan officers and risk managers will gain practical insights into formulating credit policy, assessing loan applications, and monitoring loan portfolios more effectively," the statement said.

US Real Estate Firm Eyes Burma Expansion

United States-based real estate company Re/Max may soon have a presence in Burma, according to a statement.

The company headquartered in Denver, Colorado, says it operates in nearly 100 countries worldwide through a franchise network in which offices using the Re/Max brand act as local real estate agents. A statement June 17 said that the company was offering new franchise opportunities across Asia, including in Burma.

"RE/MAX in Asia currently consists of operations in China, Guam, India, Indonesia, Japan, Mongolia, Northern Mariana Islands, Palau, Philippines, Singapore, South Korea, Sri Lanka and Thailand," the statement said.

"It is currently seeking franchise candidates for each of these countries, as well as Hong Kong, Macau, Myanmar, Taiwan and the Federated States of Micronesia."

The post The Irrawaddy Business Roundup (June 20, 2015) appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

Friday, June 19, 2015

The Irrawaddy Magazine

The Irrawaddy Magazine


Most Student Demands Unmet as MPs Pass Amended Education Law

Posted: 19 Jun 2015 07:43 AM PDT

A student holds a sign in protest against the National Education Law near Shwedagon Pagoda in Rangoon on Nov. 16, 2014. (Photo: Steve Tickner / The Irrawaddy)

A student holds a sign in protest against the National Education Law near Shwedagon Pagoda in Rangoon on Nov. 16, 2014. (Photo: Steve Tickner / The Irrawaddy)

RANGOON — Burma's Union Parliament passed a controversial bill amending the National Education Law on Thursday but failed to honor several commitments that lawmakers had made with student activists earlier this year.

The amendment bill cleared the combined legislature after 51 disagreements between lawmakers in the Upper and Lower chambers of Parliament were bridged.

Student groups, teachers' federations and a group of pro-reform advocates known as the National Network for Education Reform (NNER) had all opposed a first iteration of the National Education Law, which was passed by Parliament on Sept. 30, 2014.

In the months since, students and education reform advocates have railed against the legislation, which they say gives the central government too much control over the nation's education system. A series of protests across Burma in support of amending the law ended in violence on March 10 when about 200 student activists and their supporters became victims of a brutal police crackdown in Letpadan, Pegu Division.

Some 80 students and supporters remain in jail awaiting the verdict of an ongoing trial for illegally protesting at Letpadan.

Less than a month prior, student leaders pushing for education reform and backed by the NNER met with lawmakers and the government to negotiate amendments to the law. That meeting ended with the students ostensibly emerging victorious in their reform push, winning agreement on all 11 demands they presented.

However, Parliament's amendments to the law have not met several of the students' demands, which broadly called for a more democratic education system, stronger protections for student unions and a guarantee of greater state spending on education.

Some amendments are likely to get at least tepid approval from reformists, such as a budget provision that was included in the Lower House's version of the law. It states that the government is "to set a target to use 20 percent of the state budget for education spending," while no timeframe was given for reaching that figure. The outcome of the four-party negotiations was to achieve the one-fifth of total spending allocation within five years.

The provision in the Upper House amendment bill was "to annually increase the state's education spending to a suitable percentage within five years."

Thein Lwin of the NNER said the amended law had failed to honor nearly all of the agreements that were reached when the four-party dialogue was convened in February to discuss the issue.

"…Our conference has pointed out that education reform must continue," Thein Lwin said on Friday, a day after the NNER's second annual national conference on education, which issued a call for the immediate release of the 80 detained students and their supporters and implementation of the 11 demands agreed at the four-party dialogue.

"What we, the NNER and students, have asked for is to let student union representatives be involved in university councils. Also to include the right to freely form student unions in the Education Law."

Under the law passed Thursday, student unions' rights and restrictions are to be determined by individual universities' charters, according to lawmaker Mya Oo, secretary of Parliament's Education Upgrading Committee.

Thein Lwin argued for broader certainty for student unions nationwide.

"Considering Burma's university history, we need to enhance the role of student unions, which had exists until 1962," he said. "And student unions' representatives were involved in university administrative councils. After the military coup in 1962, the role of student unions was revoked."

Aung Nay Paing, a member of the Democracy Education Initiative Committee, which acted as reformist students' voice at the negotiating table, said the amendment bill had laid bare a domineering approach to governance by Parliament and the administration of President Thein Sein.

"I can certainly say that this is not the law that resulted from the 11 demands of students. … Parliament's action in neglecting students' demands is an action lacking in human dignity," he said.

Another demand, free compulsory education through year nine of study, also went unmet. Free compulsory education applies through grade four under the new provision, which pledges a "step by step extension" of that grade level.

Thein Lwin said the law as such conflicts with a commitment to compulsory education through grade nine made by Education Minister Khin San Yi at the World Education Forum last month.

Advocates of mother-tongue instruction will also be disappointed with the outcome of Parliament's amendment debate.

Under the current system of "English and Burmese as the medium instruction," students are taught almost exclusively in Burmese at government schools, a system that does not look likely to change under the amended law.

By a vote of 394 to 98, lawmakers voted against a provision granting "the right to use concerned ethnic languages as a medium of instruction beginning with early childhood education," along with English and Burmese. A more progressive proposal by the NNER for "mother tongue-based multilingual education" never made it into either house's amendment bill.

The nearly 400 lawmakers supporting the provision appeared to be aligning with the Ministry of Education, which said a stronger guarantee of the right to mother tongue instruction was unnecessary because ethnic language teaching was allowed as a medium of instruction at the basic education level.

Khin Maung Yi, a lawmaker from Irrawaddy Division on the losing side of the debate, said during parliamentary deliberations on Thursday that "an ethnic child, once arrived to school, is surely able to speak neither English nor Burmese, but only one's own ethnic language. Both English and Burmese are new to the child. … It's easier if the [native] ethnic language is used."

In one victory for reformists, students will be able to apply to the university of their choice by sitting an entrance system set by each individual university, without their matriculation marks determining their subject of study.

Aung Nay Paing said the beleaguered student movement's push for reforms would continue.

"We will keep fighting and boycott this education bill because it hasn't turned out as we demanded," he told The Irrawaddy.

The post Most Student Demands Unmet as MPs Pass Amended Education Law appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

Mixed Bag in Information Ministry’s New Media Regulations

Posted: 19 Jun 2015 07:31 AM PDT

A woman sells newspapers at a stand in downtown Rangoon. (Photo: JPaing / The Irrawaddy)

A woman sells newspapers at a stand in downtown Rangoon. (Photo: JPaing / The Irrawaddy)

RANGOON — More than a year after the passage of Burma's Media Law, the Ministry of Information has finalized new regulations for news organizations that will on paper give journalists greater access to information, but which may leave authorities with significant leverage over the reporting of contentious issues.

State-run media announced on Friday that the ministry had adopted the bylaws, which cover rights to information, the process for electing the Myanmar Press Council, remediation processes through the council for disputes, and the coverage of protests and armed conflict.

Myint Kyaw, secretary of the Myanmar Journalist Network and a member of the interim Myanmar Press Council, said new procedures for access to information from government departments would come into effect in the coming weeks.

"The regulations say that from now on, government departments, ministries and public organizations need to reply within 24 working hours for inquiries on present events, and for past occurrences, need to reply within 15 working days," he said.

The new bylaws set out provisions for journalists to file complaints if public bodies refuse to give information without a compelling reason.

Clarifying the law's position on reporting on conflicts and protests, bylaw 32(a) states that reporters can seek advance permission from authorities, receiving protection in return provided that journalists obey existing laws. At the moment it is unclear whether seeking permission to cover such news reports is as a result a formal prerequisite set out by the regulations.

The regulations also formalize procedures for civil action against news organizations by government authorities or private interests, giving stakeholders the right to file complaints against journalists and media proprietors for breaching the Media Law.

"We need to wait and see in practice whether the ministries apply [to pursue civil action], and how the complaints will be accepted and acted upon. That is only my concern about the law," Myint Kyaw said.

"Since now the bylaws have been announced, we can stand the law. But it is still not the case that media freedoms have been assured. There are many other laws which are still being used to prosecute and imprison journalists."

Burma's Media Law, drafted by the interim Myanmar Press Council, was enacted in March 2014, officially bringing to an end the draconian 1962 Printers and Publishers Registration Act of the Ne Win era.

While the new law granted more freedom to journalists and proprietors, numerous critics have warned that the new framework falls far short of guaranteeing media freedom. An Amnesty International report on Wednesday noted that many journalists had been prosecuted under the Penal Code or unlawfully threatened by authorities in the time since the law was passed.

UK-based freedom of expression advocacy group Article 19 said last July that it remained seriously concerned by shortcomings in the law.

"The safeguards for media freedom are heavily qualified and insufficient to meet international standards," it reported at the time.

Eleven reporters and publishers were imprisoned in 2014, in addition to the death of freelance journalist Par Gyi while in military custody.

The post Mixed Bag in Information Ministry's New Media Regulations appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

Burma Deports Another 37 Boat People to Bangladesh

Posted: 19 Jun 2015 05:03 AM PDT

A Burmese military officer, right, looks on from a Navy ship behind a boat packed with migrants off Leik Island in the Andaman Sea on May 31, 2015. (Photo: Reuters)

A Burmese military officer, right, looks on from a Navy ship behind a boat packed with migrants off Leik Island in the Andaman Sea on May 31, 2015. (Photo: Reuters)

RANGOON — Thirty-seven migrants were deported from western Burma to Bangladesh on Friday, as nearly 600 others remain in shelters near the border, according to officials.

The migrants were among 208 aboard a boat found by the Burma Navy in the Bay of Bengal in late May.

Burmese authorities determined that 200 had originated in Bangladesh, and transported them to Taung Pyo Let Wai village in Arakan State's Maungdaw Township to be scrutinized and deported.

An initial batch of 150 people were deported on June 8, 13 others who were among the group are still being assessed, officials said.|

Another boat, crammed with more than 733 people, was found on May 29 off the coast of Irrawaddy Division. The boat was held offshore for several days before being towed to Maungdaw, where passengers were transferred to border holding facilities and scrutinized to determine their origins.

Local immigration officials told The Irrawaddy that 546 were found to be Bangladeshi and will be deported "soonest." The remaining 187 passengers, including 43 children and 62 women, were found to be from Burma.

An immigration officer in the Arakan State capital Sittwe confirmed the deportations and said that Bangladesh has also scrutinized the migrants to determined that those who have been deported are Bangladeshi citizens.

"On the side of the Bangladeshi government, they have checked their citizenship already," immigration official Khin Soe told The Irrawaddy. "They checked them one by one, and even requested an investigation report at their embassy in Rangoon to be sent to their foreign ministry."

"They [the government of Bagladesh] told us that they will bring their citizens back as soon as possible," he said.

Migrants from Bangladesh and refugees from Burma's Arakan State have been boarding boats in droves to seek work or refuge in neighboring countries, many ending up in the hands of human traffickers.

Those who fled from Burma are predominantly Rohingya Muslims, a mostly stateless minority that largely lives in apartheid-like conditions since deadly inter-communal violence erupted in the coastal state in 2012.

A Thai crackdown on the trade last month left thousands stranded at sea as traffickers abandoned their human cargo, leading to a regional crisis that has directly affected Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Burma and Bangladesh.%MCEPASTEBIN%

The post Burma Deports Another 37 Boat People to Bangladesh appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

Privatization of Transmitter Site Stirs Passions in Parliament

Posted: 19 Jun 2015 03:06 AM PDT

Information Minister Ye Htut is seen in this file photo. (Photo: The Irrawaddy)

Information Minister Ye Htut is seen in this file photo. (Photo: The Irrawaddy)

RANGOON — The Union Parliament chamber hosted an unusually lively legislative session on Thursday as Information Minister Ye Htut sparred with lawmakers and faced threats of impeachment over privatization of the Yegu transmitter at the corner of Gandamar and Wai Za Yan Tar roads in northwestern Rangoon.

In May, the Information Ministry invited tenders for turning over 90 out of 120 acres of the former site of a state broadcasting station in Rangoon's Mayangon Township, seeking development proposals.

An Eleven Media report accused the ministry of conducting the tendering process in a turbid fashion, saying the brief window for bidders—just over a month—was not enough for most companies to submit proposals. The report claimed that the tender excludes all but a handful of well-connected media companies.

According to the tender invitation, bidders were to submit detailed development plans for the site by a June 19 deadline, including zoning plans for each portion of the project, implementation programs with detailed methodology, cost estimates and work schedules. The tender was issued on May 15.

Lawmaker Aung Thein Lin from the South Okkalapa Township constituency submitted an urgent proposal to the Union parliament seeking suspension of the project.

Legislators approved the proposal on May 27, but the Union government sent a letter to Parliament dated June 4 indicating that it would "consider" the project to ensure state losses were not incurred as a result of the privatization. The information minister then submitted a list of six bidders during Thursday's session of the Union Parliament, riling lawmakers.

A number of parliamentarians spoke against Ye Htut's attempt to push the project forward, with some saying he could be impeached if he did not respect Parliament's decision, which they said would be in violation of the Constitution.

Article 228 of the Constitution states that the Union government must "implement the administrative resolutions passed occasionally by the Union Parliament and report back the actions which have been taken to the Union Parliament."

"A parliamentary session already decided to suspend privatization on May 27. But then, Information Minister U Ye Htut even accepted a bid submitted on June 3," said Phone Myint Aung, a lawmaker from the Lower House with the New National Democracy Party.

"Parliament has told him to stop, but he continues and even said at the Parliament that he would continue. It is defying the Parliament. I have submitted [a motion] to impeach U Ye Htut. There will be a series of consequences. You wait and see," he said.

Ye Htut said he is ready to face any impeachment proceedings brought by lawmakers. He said he would make sure the state does not suffer losses in the course of the Yegu site's privatization and denied having any vested interest in the project.

"My decisions may be right or wrong in handling the functions of the Information Ministry. There may be weaknesses," Ye Htut told lawmakers. "But one thing I am sure of is that I have no personal interests, nothing at all [in the project]. My wife and my children do not operate media agencies and they do not supply anything to the Information Ministry. I may make wrong decisions because of my nascent experiences, but when it comes to morality and personal interests, I dare to be tested."

According to Ye Htut, the six bidders for the project are Auspicious Millennium Trading Group, Yangon Engineering Group, Global Technology, Shwe Than Lwin Media, Thein Kyaw Kyaw and Myanmar Media United.

The fate of the tender remains unclear.

The post Privatization of Transmitter Site Stirs Passions in Parliament appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

Innovation Competition to Promote Tourism Shakeup

Posted: 19 Jun 2015 03:01 AM PDT

A group of tourists at the summit of a pagoda in Bagan. (Photo: The Irrawaddy)

A group of tourists at the summit of a pagoda in Bagan. (Photo: The Irrawaddy)

RANGOON — The UK government is funding an innovation competition for Burma's burgeoning tourism industry, hoping to assist hoteliers and other local operators will develop new ways of catering for an increasing number of foreign travelers.

Funded by the UK's Business Innovation Facility and managed by local consulting firm HamsaHub, the competition winner will receive up to $20,000 to meet half the cost of setting up new domestic destination tourism packages.

At a launch event on Friday, competition manager Thar Lin Htet said that Burma's tourism sector had been stifled by low arrival numbers and it was time for new approaches to revitalize the industry.

"Any hoteliers and tour companies can compete in this competition," he said. "We'll be consulting these candidates during the competition period to see whether or not their ideas are practical. Candidates will have to submit their proposal by the end of September, and then we will announce the winners in October."

The award's winner will be judged by financial benefits for local communities, commercial viability, sustainability and environmental impact. Business Innovation Facility country manager Thuta Aung said that interested parties will have until July 17 to submit a proposal, and another competition will be held next year.

Dr Aung Myat Kyaw, chairman of the Union of Myanmar Travel Association (UMTA), said that innovation was sorely needed in Burma's tourism market, but that new directions must be informed by the profile of foreign arrivals.

"There are many tourists are coming here and we must know that how to handle them," he said. "There are many things they want here, and businesses must know how to meet these wants."

According to UMTA data, there were more than 3 million tourists visiting Burma last year. The government has projected 5 million arrivals for 2015, and more than 1.5 million tourists visited during the first four months of the year.

The post Innovation Competition to Promote Tourism Shakeup appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

2 Police Injured by Bomb Blast in Hpakant

Posted: 19 Jun 2015 02:56 AM PDT

Villagers flee with their belongings after conflict in Hpakant, Kachin State. (Photo: Kachin Baptist Convention)

Villagers flee with their belongings after conflict in Hpakant, Kachin State. (Photo: Kachin Baptist Convention)

MANDALAY — Two police officers were injured by a bomb blast in Hpakant on Wednesday night, following renewed conflict in the jade-rich area of northern Burma's Kachin State.

Police said three blasts were reported; one in downtown Hpakant and two in the outlying villages.

"There was a blast near the Jade Bridge [in downtown Hpakant] and one at Nant Maw, which left two police officers with minor injuries," said Aung Myint, a spokesman for the Hpakant Police.

The third explosion took place near a military security office in Sint Mu, another village on the outskirts of town, he said, adding that it was "too early to say who is responsible."

The two injured officers have been taken to Hpakant General Hospital for treatment and calm has been restored to the town amid heightened security, the spokesman said.

Locals are concerned, however, that conflict between the Kachin Independence Army (KIA) and the Burma Army will intensify, causing villagers to flee, local businesses to fold and political rights to be withheld.

Residents worry that elections expected to take place in early November could be cancelled in the area if fighting continues. Hpakant's electorate was not allowed to vote during the 2012 by-elections because conflict made the area inaccessible to poll workers.

"During the by-election, we couldn't participate for security reasons, so we worry that we will be excluded again," said La Moung, a local villager.

Others, such as jade mine operator Rwae Jar, expressed concern that the conflict could damage the local economy.

"We just worry about our own security, and we also worry that the situation will pressure the mining business to shut down," she said, fearing a repeat of a previous hiatus from which local businesses have just begun to recoup.

Mining was stalled for two years by a government order following a flare-up of conflict in the region, but resumed in September of last year despite security warnings from local officials and industry experts. Conflict erupted again within months of restarting operations, leading many local operators to voluntarily stop working their mines for months.

Clashes between government troops and the KIA have flared intermittently since a ceasefire broke down in mid-2011, with an estimated 100,000 people having been displaced by the violence.

About 100 villagers are believed to have fled after fighting broke out about 20 miles east of Hpakant on Monday. Local sources said they are believed to be hiding in the nearby jungles, and are likely difficult for relief workers to access.

The KIA is one of the only major ethnic armed groups in Burma that has not reached a bilateral ceasefire with the government as negotiators continue their push for a nationwide peace pact.

Kachin State is among the world's last remaining sources of jade, and is also rich in other gems, minerals and valuable timber. Resource extraction has long been both a major cause and source of revenue for conflict in the remote ethnic state bordering China.

The post 2 Police Injured by Bomb Blast in Hpakant appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

Suu Kyi Calls for ‘Clean Politics’ in 70th Birthday Message

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 11:37 PM PDT

Burmese democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi, who turns 70 today, at a Rangoon press conference in 1997. (Photo: Patrick De Noirmont / Reuters)

Burmese democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi, who turns 70 today, at a Rangoon press conference in 1997. (Photo: Patrick De Noirmont / Reuters)

RANGOON—Burma's opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi has used a video message recorded for her 70th birthday on Friday to call for 'clean politics' ahead of the general election this year.

In the 10-minute, Burmese language message posted on the National League for Democracy Facebook page, Suu Kyi thanked the public for their support and urged them to act lawfully and in unity to ensure Burma's stability and development.

"Please don't cheat people. Please avoid dishonest means for your party's success. This year is very important," she said.

The Nobel laureate said that the poll would determine the future of the country for the years to come and the country was at a crossroads on par with that of 1947's independence declaration.

"How the election will be held, what the results will be and what Burma will look like after the elections will decide Burma's future for years to come, not only for this year," she said. "People will have to decide which road they want Burma to take. Please take a long view, whatever you do."

She added that she has learned after near 30 years on the political stage that every person had an ability to make a contribution to their country and the world.

"Whether you are in a humble or high position, please think seriously about what you could do for the country. Don't think about what you need. Think about the people around you, the world and mankind. We can't be isolated from the outside world," she said. "If I get the chance to live for another 20 years, I want to see Burma developed and I want the Burmese people to be respected by the world."

Suu Kyi will celebrate her birthday in Naypyidaw today before traveling to Rangoon for a meeting of the NLD central executive committee on Saturday.

The post Suu Kyi Calls for 'Clean Politics' in 70th Birthday Message appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

Hijacked Orkim Harmony Tanker Released, Pirates Escape

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 10:33 PM PDT

An oil tanker off the coast of Kuala Lumpur. (Photo: Samsul Said / Reuters)

An oil tanker off the coast of Kuala Lumpur. (Photo: Samsul Said / Reuters)

KUALA LUMPUR — The hijacked oil tanker Orkim Harmony has been released by pirates, who fled in the ship’s rescue boat, Malaysian navy and maritime officials said on Friday.

The Orkim Harmony, hijacked on June 11 off the Malaysian coast by pirates reportedly armed with pistols and machetes, was now being escorted by the navy to Malaysia’s Kuantan Port.

Officials said only one member of the 22 crew was injured, suffering a gunshot wound to the thigh.

Three Malaysian navy ships and two aircraft were hunting the fleeing pirates.

The hijacking is the second seizure of a tanker by pirates in Southeast Asia this month, raising further concerns over piracy in the region.

The 7,300 deadweight tonne Orkim Harmony was hijacked about 30 nautical miles from the Malaysian port of Tanjung Sedili carrying around 50,000 barrels of RON95 gasoline.

The Malaysia Maritime Enforcement Agency (MMEA) said the gasoline on the ship was owned by state-controlled oil and gas company Petronas.

The Orkim Harmony is operated by Malaysia’s Orkim Ship Management. On board is a crew of 22, including 16 Malaysians, five Indonesians and one Myanmar national.

After the tanker was hijacked, the pirates repainted the ship and changed the name to Kim Harmon. Malaysia’s Chief of Navy Admiral Abdul Aziz Jaafar says eight pirates were involved.

The Malaysian naval vessel shadowing the tanker in Vietnamese waters on Thursday was trying to persuade the hijackers to surrender, says Jaafar.

Early on Friday, Malaysia said the hijacked ship was still being shadowed by a navy ship and had been redirected to Indonesia’s Natuna Island, where it was expected to arrive on Saturday.

A subsequent MMEA report said the pirates had fled the ship.

Earlier this month, a 7,100 DWT oil tanker, Orkim Victory, carrying diesel loaded from Petronas was hijacked on June 4 in the same area and on the same route.

The Orkim Victory was later released by the hijackers after about 770 metric tonnes (6,000 barrels) of its cargo had been siphoned off.

The post Hijacked Orkim Harmony Tanker Released, Pirates Escape appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

Keeping the Flame Alive

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 10:16 PM PDT

Keeping the Flame Alive

Keeping the Flame Alive

The post Keeping the Flame Alive appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

Thailand Confirms First MERS Case: Health Ministry

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 09:55 PM PDT

A Thai Airways worker cleans the cabin of an aircraft of the national carrier at Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi International Airport, Thailand, June 18, 2015. (Photo: Reuters)

A Thai Airways worker cleans the cabin of an aircraft of the national carrier at Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport, Thailand, June 18, 2015. (Photo: Reuters)

BANGKOK — Thailand confirmed its first case of Middle East Respiratory Syndrome (MERS) on Thursday, becoming the fourth Asian country to register the deadly virus this year.

Public Health Minister Rajata Rajatanavin told a news conference that a 75-year-old businessman from Oman had tested positive for MERS.

"From two lab tests we can confirm that the MERS virus was found," Rajata said, adding the man had travelled to Bangkok for medical treatment for a heart condition.

"The first day he came he was checked for the virus. The patient … contracted the MERS virus."

The health minister said 59 others were being monitored for the virus, including three of the man's relatives who travelled with him to Bangkok.

MERS is caused by a coronavirus from the same family as the one that triggered China's deadly 2003 outbreak of Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome (SARS).

The vast majority of MERS infections and deaths have been in Saudi Arabia, where more than 1,000 people have been infected since 2012, and about 454 have died.

Last month, a MERS outbreak erupted in South Korea resulting in 23 deaths so far. A total of 165 people have been infected and 6,700 people are in quarantine.

But there have been signs that the outbreak, the largest outside of Saudi Arabia, may be slowing in South Korea. The daily number of new cases has dropped to single digits this week compared to as many as 23 last week. Three were reported on Thursday—the lowest number since June 1.

All of the infections known to have occurred in South Korea have taken place in healthcare facilities. Three hospitals have been at least partially shut and two have been locked down with patients and medical staff inside.

China and the Philippines have also reported one MERS case this year.

Earlier, Thailand's Disease Control Department said it was screening travelers at 67 points of entry.

"We are checking 67 ports including land, sea and air," said Sophon Mekthon, secretary-general of Thailand's Disease Control Department.

"We've told all hospitals in Thailand to be on alert. Those who come back from the Middle East and South Korea must be checked thoroughly."

The post Thailand Confirms First MERS Case: Health Ministry appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

China State Media Calls HK Opposition ‘Destroyers’ After Electoral Reform Vetoed

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 09:51 PM PDT

Pro-democracy lawmakers chant slogans after voting at Legislative Council in Hong Kong, China, on June 18, 2015. (Photo: Reuters)

Pro-democracy lawmakers chant slogans after voting at Legislative Council in Hong Kong, China, on June 18, 2015. (Photo: Reuters)

BEIJING — Chinese state media lashed out at Hong Kong's opposition pro-democracy lawmakers on Friday after the legislature in the financial hub vetoed a Beijing-backed electoral reform package.

The rejection was a rare instance of Hong Kong, the former British colony that reverted to Chinese rule in 1997, voting so heavily against a proposal endorsed by China's central legislature.

The largely rubber-stamp regional legislatures around China would likely never reject an order from Beijing to pass a bill, so the Hong Kong veto is both a setback and an embarrassment for the ruling Communist Party.

Beijing had pressured and cajoled the city's pro-democracy lawmakers to back the blueprint that would have allowed a direct vote for the city's next chief executive in 2017, but only among pre-screened, pro-Beijing candidates.

It had been feared before the vote that there could be a repeat of pro-democracy protests that shut down key areas of the city late last year in what became one of the biggest political challenges Communist Party leaders had faced in decades.

"The conduct and deeds of the opposition faction show that they are disturbers and destroyers in the process of the democratization of Hong Kong," the party's official People's Daily newspaper wrote in a commentary in its overseas edition.

"The goal of their veto of the universal suffrage bill is to contest the governance of Hong Kong by the central government, conspiring to turn Hong Kong into an independent political entity," it wrote, referring to the 28 lawmakers who voted against the proposal.

Hong Kong's pro-democracy opposition calls Beijing's proposal a "fake" democratic model.

"All those who voted against the blueprint might be cocky today, but they will face the judgment of history and shoulder the responsibility eventually," influential tabloid The Global Times, published by the People's Daily, said in an editorial in its English-language edition.

"We are concerned that a Pandora's box is being opened in Hong Kong and various devils are released to ruin the region's future," it said, warning that Hong Kong could "degenerate from the capital of finance and fashion to a total mess."

Hong Kong returned to China under a "one country, two systems" formula that gives it a separate legal system and greater freedoms than the party-ruled mainland—and the promise of eventual universal suffrage.

Thousands of pro-democracy activists blockaded major roads across Hong Kong for 79 days late last year, defying tear gas and pepper spray.

The post China State Media Calls HK Opposition 'Destroyers' After Electoral Reform Vetoed appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

Trekking in Kyaingtong

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 05:00 PM PDT

Akha people from Wenpin village in Shan State. (Photo: Whitney Light)

Akha people from Wenpin village in Shan State. (Photo: Whitney Light)

KYAINGTONG, Shan State — As we passed through the small village of Wenpin in eastern Shan State, girls decked out in sparkling pink modern skirts and tops scampered up the hillside. A few feet back, men prodded a fat, squealing hog into following.

"He doesn't want to go," said Sai Win. "He knows he will die."

The Shan guide and I revised our day's trekking route to watch the proceedings. A few hours later, we were sitting by a mountain stream watching Akha villagers prepare a feast—grilled pork, pork stew, pork-rice congee, roasted pork skin and spiced blood. Meanwhile, a man split bamboo into fine ribbons and wove them into "thousand eye" motifs to mount on auspicious trees. Male elders gathered in a circle to drink a toast of rice whiskey and eat from a ritual round of dishes.

There had been no way of knowing that this day was an occasion for worshipping ancestors and appeasing forest spirits. In the Akha belief system, ancestors oversee health, wealth and fertility, while spirits can wreak havoc on human life. Their rites and offerings number nine or twelve a year, although some sources say that sacrifices are made as often as once a week.

Welcomed to sit in on the event, we were privy to unique traditions in the way some "hill-tribe trekkers" probably hope for but don't often get in tourist hotspots. I spotted fewer than five foreign tourists (alongside busloads of Chinese visitors) in town over the course of a week.

At present, Kyaingtong (also known as Kengtung and Chiang Tung, reflecting its history as a former city state of the Lanna kingdom) has the charm of a seemingly remote outpost, but it has the potential to grow into a much bigger visitor spot. Many tourists today probably can't help but wonder, with premature nostalgia, what will development look like? Can it be done ethically and sustainably? Or will it end up with gawkers parading through "human zoos," as critics call some tourist villages of northern Thailand, while poorer and more remote villages get no attention?

The only foreigner I spoke with during my stay was a Czech man at the bus station. We'd both just arrived after a five hour un-airconditioned journey on coaches packed with shoppers returning from Tachileik, "City of the Golden Triangle." He wore a technical backpack complete with a tent. In contravention of, or oblivious to, the authorities' ban on overnight trekking, he said he was going camping in the woods but wanted a cheap guesthouse for the night.

As elsewhere in Myanmar, however, there isn't any truly budget accommodation in Kyaingtong. The Chinese family-run Law Yee Chain Hotel where I stayed starts at US$30 per night. The carpet throughout is threadbare and nothing has been replaced in perhaps 20 years. However, the staff are diligent, the rooms are spacious and the pastel pink walls hung with faded posters of wild horses and cherubs lend a certain aesthetic.

Although you are limited by what you can do in a day, routes for a combination of travel by motorbike and on foot fan out in all directions from the city center, encompassing Aeng, Akha, Akhu, Khun and Lawa villages, stunning views of valleys and rice terraces and the sleepy old British hill station of Loimwe.

It's enough to keep you occupied for at least four days, with some time left for exploring the city. A mountain bike would be ideal for venturing down the maze of small roads outside of town, but you would have to bring your own, as no one appears to be in the bike rental business yet.

For trekking, small groups can expect to pay a flat day-rate of about 80,000 kyat (US$72) for a knowledgeable guide. Win Trekking is excellent, with 20 years of experience and sensitivity to the hill tribe cultures, including proficiency in multiple local languages. In Sai Win's company we were welcomed everywhere for tea and chitchat. In one Aeng village, we used the local chairman's house—a wood and bamboo box, with a porch, raised on stilts—to rest and cook lunch.

Here, while Sai Win and his students (young guides-in-training) prepared a simple feast of soup, salads and omelets, I sat with the chairman and his wife, who was suffering from a skin infection just below her right eye. The skin was black and puffed like a small balloon and she used a tissue to wipe her reddened sclera. A surgeon in Kyaingtong had tried to operate once already, Sai Win translated, and was unwilling to try again. She retrieved a tiny box of handmade items, and I bought a headscarf, wishing her robust future sales.

She was one of the few elderly women I met that week. At the Akha feast, small children and young women surrounded me. Few appeared over the age of 40. Some women lightly boasted of having raised between 8 and 15 children, their culture's norm, and teased when they heard my answers to the usual polite questions. "Only one?" a few asked, meaning "Where is your family?"

The demographic reflected what the Akha Women's Foundation reports: average life expectancy for villagers is only 43 years, on account of low access to medical care, malnutrition and harsh lives of manual labor, with few opportunities in the modern world. This description rang true in eastern Shan State, where many Akha have remained in farming villages through thick and thin, including periods soon after Myanmar's independence when the Kuomintang and later the Communist Party of Burma were ascendant in the area.

The number of men also struck me as low, though several who had been hunting to supplement the feast emerged from the bush later on, evidently a bit downcast at returning empty-handed. Still, there was plenty to go around.

Notably, no one was dressed in the traditional Akha garb of indigo jackets and, for women, elaborate headdresses of beads and silver discs. All wore cheap, practical clothes, easily procured from Kyaingtong markets: t-shirts, cotton-print longyis for women, and trousers for men.

The scene pointed to the ridiculousness of tourists who complain to each other and in online trip forums that evidence of modernity or modified traditions is "inauthentic."

Of course, the style of tourism that develops in eastern Shan State depends as much or more on the behavior and expectations of the people who visit (and the tour providers who indulge them), as on villagers themselves.

Getting there

Buses leave from Tachileik daily at 8:00 am and noon. Tickets cost 10,000 kyat (or 400 baht).

There are also a few airlines flying between Tachileik or Heho and Kyaingtong, for about $50 one way. Check Air KBZ and Myanmar National Airlines for schedules.

Currently, foreigners are not permitted to travel beyond Kyaingtong overland.

Eating

Kyaingtong cuisine is above average in Myanmar. For breakfast, don't miss the central morning market for a steaming bowl of soup with fresh wheat noodles or wontons, pancakes, paratha and more. For lunch or dinner, Lod Htin Lu restaurant serves wholesome Chinese food. Or, grab a fresh fruit smoothie or ice cream at Don't Forget restaurant on the east side of Naung Tung Lake.

Sleeping

For centrally located, clean, low-cost rooms try Law Yee Chain Hotel (+95 84 21 114) or the Sam Yweat Hotel (+95 842 1235). Expect to pay $20-50 per night depending on the season. Sam Yweat Guesthouse (+95 84 21643) rooms can be had for $15, but it's outside the downtown area, on Airport Road. The Princess Hotel (+95 84 21 319) is a step up, with rooms starting at $40 per night.

This article originally appeared in the June 2015 issue of The Irrawaddy magazine.

The post Trekking in Kyaingtong appeared first on The Irrawaddy.

National News

National News


Student unions left out of education law

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 09:05 PM PDT

The joint houses of parliament yesterday rejected key student demands in approving the final version of the amended National Education Law, ending months of controversy that had led to protests and mass arrests.

Ceasefire demands violate ‘national causes’: military

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 09:04 PM PDT

The future of the national ceasefire process was looking dim yesterday as Tatmadaw Commander-in-Chief Senior General Min Aung Hlaing made it clear that the military would be unlikely to accept all additional demands from the ethnic armed groups.

Police unit seeks better relations with media

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 08:59 PM PDT

The Yangon Region Police Force has formed a new media unit aimed at building better relations between journalists and law enforcement officials.

MPs face restrictions in next week’s constitutional debate

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 08:57 PM PDT

Scores of MPs have registered to debate long-awaited constitutional amendment bills next week but some have expressed concerns over restrictions on what can be discussed and the likely voting system.

Defiant U Ye Htut says Yegu tender will continue

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 08:53 PM PDT

In apparent defiance of parliament, the government says it will continue with plans to sell off the 90-acre transmitter site at Yegu, in Yangon's Mayangone township.

Wheelchair-user gets driver’s licence

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 08:44 PM PDT

Ko Nay Lin Soe has been unable to walk from an early age due to the effects of polio, but that has not stopped him from striving to live life as an able-bodied person.

Three-year study to examine waterways

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 08:43 PM PDT

A project to gather data on the country's freshwater resources and the management of its river flows will take three years, workshop participants heard on June 16.

Myanmar to repatriate 37 more migrants to Bangladesh today

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 08:39 PM PDT

Government officials say 187 of more than 700 people aboard a vessel rescued in late May are from Myanmar.

Lawyers allege abuse as eight freed in Rakhine

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 08:38 PM PDT

Defence lawyers for the 32 people arrested in Rakhine State under the colonial-era Unlawful Association Act for alleged contacts with the Arakan Army claim their clients were beaten by the police while in custody.

Village for homeless takes shape in Ayeyarwady delta

Posted: 18 Jun 2015 08:34 PM PDT

Across the country, families are grappling with joblessness, drought, flooding, land-grabs and the effects of migration. For many, securing a place to sleep for the night is their highest aspiration.