Saturday, September 6, 2014

The Irrawaddy Magazine

The Irrawaddy Magazine


The Ties That Bind

Posted: 05 Sep 2014 06:00 PM PDT

In this undated photo, Col. Myint Swe (seated, center) appears with Gen. Ne Win (standing, in sunglasses) and other members of a party traveling by the naval ship May Yu from Myeik to Kawthaung. (Photo: Tay Za Family Archive)

In this undated photo, Col. Myint Swe (seated, center) appears with Gen. Ne Win (standing, in sunglasses) and other members of a party traveling by the naval ship May Yu from Myeik to Kawthaung. (Photo: Tay Za Family Archive)

YANGON — As a young officer, Col. Myint Swe was known for his courage and his loyalty to his fellow soldiers. Always generous with those serving under him, he was fierce in battle, whether he was fighting foreign forces during World War II or an array of insurgent armies after Myanmar regained its independence in 1948.

Hailing from Pyin Oo Lwin (then known as Maymyo), he joined the army in 1942, when the country was under Japanese occupation. Three years later, he joined the uprising against his military mentors by throwing some Japanese soldiers off a train after getting them drunk while traveling to Upper Myanmar.

When he was in his 30s, he led the 104th Special Force Airborne in attacks on communist and ethnic rebels, earning a reputation for ruthlessness. Rebel leaders who surrendered admitted that their troops fled whenever they intercepted reports that the 104th was on its way.

In 1958, after a stint at the US Army Infantry School in Fort Benning, Georgia, he was assigned to the army research department—a nascent version of a homegrown Central Intelligence Agency created by Gen. Ne Win, the army leader who seized state power in 1962.

As a veteran of Gen. Ne Win's old regiment, the 4th Burma Rifles, Col. Myint Swe enjoyed the trust of the country's new dictator, and in 1968 he was tasked with a mopping-up operation after the communist leader Thakin Than Tun, a former colleague of Myanmar's assassinated independence hero Gen. Aung San, was himself killed by an infiltrator.

Forty years later, after a distinguished military career and a comfortable retirement, Col. Myint Swe died, leaving behind a loving family—and a legacy that continues to ripple through the tangled web of connections that make up Myanmar's military-business nexus.

A Soldier's Son

Soon after his death, the highlights of Col. Myint Swe's career were detailed in a book that included high praise from former army chief Gen. Tin Oo and late Brig.-Gen. Aung Gyi, both of whom went on to co-found the National League for Democracy (NLD) with Daw Aung San Suu Kyi in 1988.

The publisher of that book was U Tay Za, Myanmar's richest tycoon, and Col. Myint Swe's youngest son.

Although it's widely known that U Tay Za owes his fortune to his close ties to Myanmar's former ruling generals, the depth of his connections to the military has seldom been discussed. However, as the country opens up and the hold of the so-called "cronies" comes under increasing scrutiny, it is becoming clear that some bonds are stronger than others.

This became especially apparent in July, when one of the grandsons of the late Gen. Ne Win revealed that his family's firm had agreed to buy a majority stake in U Tay Za's Asian Green Development (AGD) Bank.

In an emailed response to questions from The Irrawaddy, U Aye Ne Win said that the deal—which more recent reports have suggested U Tay Za is reconsidering—was based in part on his family's special ties to that of the US-sanctioned tycoon.

"Highly reputable and prestigious though some other banking institutions in this nation undoubtedly are, we chose to establish a strategic alliance with U Tay Za and AGD Bank because we have personal connections between our families and the bank in question can provide us with an assurance of a promising future," wrote the grandson of Myanmar's former dictator.

If it goes ahead, the plan—which would be backed by the China National Corporation for Overseas Economic Cooperation (CCOEC), a Chinese state-owned company that has offered the Ne Win clan's company Omni US$4.9 billion to invest as it sees fit in the Myanmar economy—would dramatically underline the hold that old elites continue to have over the country, and the role that personal relationships among them could play in its future development.

Frustrated

At the same time, however, the uncertainty surrounding AGD Bank highlights the continuing pressure on these elites to demonstrate greater transparency.

Preempting criticism of his family's decision to accept money from CCOEC, U Aye Ne Win was at pains to stress that Omni had done its due diligence. "After careful evaluation, it was brought to our knowledge that the said amount is legitimate and clean," he said of the Chinese money—emphatically adding that his family's assets were similarly untainted.

"In this day and age of WikiLeaks, it is highly unlikely that any fortune that is accumulated as a result of some wrongdoing will go unnoticed," he said.

U Tay Za, however, has had to go to much greater lengths to convince those interested in doing business in Myanmar that he is someone they can safely associate with. The flamboyant tycoon, who was put on the US Treasury Department's list of sanctioned "Specially Designated Nationals" (SDN) in 2008 for acting as an arms dealer for the former junta and otherwise supporting its rule, is known to have hired PR firms in Washington, DC, to lobby to have his name expunged from the list, to no avail.

The frustrated crony acknowledged the difficulty he's had with cleaning up his image when he explained why he was looking to unload AGD Bank, which he established in 2010.

"We even have to provide MasterCard services later than the other banks because of US sanctions on me. Everything I do is later than the others," he told reporters. "The facts I have just mentioned are the reason why I want to sell my shares out."

From Crony to Donor

In a bid to relax restrictions on his sprawling conglomerate, the Htoo Group of Companies, U Tay Za has also played the philanthropy card, donating to the NLD and, more recently, promising to give $1 million to a journalism foundation to promote better reporting (a move that raised some eyebrows in light of a libel lawsuit he launched against a local publication late last year).

But while his contributions to the country may have been enough to win him an honorary title from President U Thein Sein, U Tay Za is likely to find that the US government is not so easily impressed.

Following his first visit to Myanmar in July, Tom Malinowski, the US assistant secretary of state for democracy, human rights and labor, made it clear in an interview with The Irrawaddy that "donations to charity, while welcome, would not be taken into consideration—for this purpose, what's important is not how they spend their money but how they make their money."

He continued: "We will look to see SDNs sever business ties with the military, respect human rights, including by avoiding involvement in land seizures, and respect civilian rule."

Although some see him as increasingly vulnerable (leaders of the Kachin Independence Organization, for instance, have told me that they have "warned" him about his business plans in Kachin State, and even demolished one of his helipads there), if U Tay Za can rehabilitate himself in the eyes of US policymakers—which is still a distinct possibility—he could yet emerge as one of the big winners as Myanmar's economy opens up.

In the meantime, his status as a special class of crony—one with ties going back not just to the post-1988 junta, but also to the 1962 coup—will be more than enough to keep him in the game for some time to come.

This article was first published in the September 2014 print issue of The Irrawaddy magazine.

The post The Ties That Bind appeared first on The Irrawaddy Magazine.

The Irrawaddy Business Roundup (September 6, 2014)

Posted: 05 Sep 2014 05:30 PM PDT

Burma e-Visa Reduces Queues, But Remains 'Cumbersome'

A new electronic application system introduced to try to speed up visa applications for tourists visiting Burma is "cumbersome and slow," a travel trade newspaper said.

An online visa buying system was introduced this week for visitors from 40 countries, but an application still takes five days and is obtainable only for tourists arriving in the country at Rangoon's airport, said TTR Weekly in Bangkok.

"[The system] still remains cumbersome and slow, although considerably more convenient than visiting an embassy or consulate," the paper reported.

"The Myanmar embassy in regional hub Bangkok is deluged daily with visa requests, leading to hours-long queues."

Tourism has become a mushrooming and lucrative business since the end of the military regime in Burma and the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism is targeting 5 million visitors a year by the end of 2015.

There were 2 million overseas visitors in 2013, according to the ministry, and this year could "possibly be 3 million at the present growth rate," TTR Weekly said.

The online visa, valid for 28 days, costs US$50, but is not available for business visitors, said Eleven Media quoting the Ministry of Immigration.

The new system coincides with an announcement by Bangkok Airways that it will introduce direct routes to Rangoon and Mandalay from Chiang Mai in northern Thailand from October 26 to eliminate transfers in Bangkok.
Anti-Money Laundering Watchdog Formed to Hunt and Prosecute Offenders

Burma now has an anti-money laundering watchdog charged by the Naypyidaw government with investigating and prosecuting individuals and businesses suspected of illegally processing cash, a report said.

The 15-member Anti-Money Laundering Central Board was formed at the end of August and will be led by the home affairs ministry, said Eleven Media quoting a government statement.
Its members include the governor of the Central Bank, deputy ministers from the Home Affairs Ministry and the Finance Ministry, the deputy attorney-general and the country's chief of police.

The only non-government official invited onto the board is Win Aung, the president of the Union of Myanmar Federation of Chambers of Commerce and Industry.

"The board has nine tasks, including adopting policies related to anti-money laundering and terrorism financing; taking legal action…in coordination with respective government departments and other agencies; and laying down a national strategy to combat the crime," said Eleven Media, citing a government gazette statement.
Burmese Firms to Import Expensive Gas to Meet Power Plant Shortfall

Burma is to begin importing natural gas to meet a shortfall in supplies to fuel new power plants built in the greater Rangoon area, a report said.

Import licenses were awarded to several Burmese firms, including Asia World, said Eleven Media, adding that they were jointly paying for a delivery of 85 million cubic feet of liquefied natural gas (LNG) by sea tanker.

The report quoted Ministry of Energy sources. However, it's not clear how LNG imports will be handled.
LNG is chilled into liquid form at its export source for ease of transport but requires specialist equipment to regasify it on delivery.

The Naypyidaw government was considering the hire of a Floating Storage and Regasification Unit to anchor off Rangoon harbor, Natural Gas Asia reported several months ago.

Despite Burma being a major natural gas producer, most production is exported on long-term contracts signed by the previous military government, mainly to Thailand.

The Ministry of Electrical Power has said Burma's growing number of gas-fueled power plants need 500 million cubic feet per day (mcfd), however, only 300 mcfd is available.
Thailand 'Abuses Freedom of Expression' in Burmese Rights Trial

Major international retailing businesses such as Marks & Spencer and food chain giant Tesco have joined called for the criminal case against human rights campaigner Andy Hall in Thailand to be dropped.

Hall is facing multiple criminal defamation charges brought by Thailand's Natural Fruit company, the world's largest pineapple grower which produces juice drinks for export. He alleged in a report that the company's factory near Bangkok abused Burmese migrant workers in various ways and illegally employed Burmese children.

The trial against Hall, a Briton, began this week and if convicted he could be imprisoned for up to eight years.
The civil charges "are being brought under new laws intended to clamp down on freedom of expression," The Guardian newspaper in London said.

"The Thai government should be embarrassed that its courts are being used to prosecute Mr Hall. And it should be grateful for his work to expose wrongdoing."

Hall and other rights campaigners allege that many of the estimated 2.5 million migrant workers in Thailand—80 percent of whom are Burmese—are mistreated by employers with below legal pay, long hours, no holidays and confiscation of documents to prevent them leaving.
Northeast India Deal Boosts Burma's Rice Exports

India is to import 500,000 tons of rice from Burma for distribution in the isolated northeast Indian states of Mizoram and Tripura.

The rice is needed because of major renovation work on the states' railways beginning in October which will disrupt local supply routes, Myanmar Business Network said. The Burmese rice will be imported over a year until the railways are back to normal, it said.

The India sales deal comes after the Ministry of Commerce said rice exports rose 25 percent in the first four months of this financial year compared with the previous. The increase was attributed to higher purchases from Russia, the ministry said.

Burma exported about 1 million tons of rice in the 2013-14 financial year.

The post The Irrawaddy Business Roundup (September 6, 2014) appeared first on The Irrawaddy Magazine.

Indian States on Alert After al Qaeda Announces Local Wing

Posted: 05 Sep 2014 05:00 PM PDT

A Kashmiri vendor takes a nap as Indian policemen stand guard before funeral prayers for Osama bin Laden after Friday prayers in Srinagar on May 6, 2011. (Photo: Reuters)

A Kashmiri vendor takes a nap as Indian policemen stand guard before funeral prayers for Osama bin Laden after Friday prayers in Srinagar on May 6, 2011. (Photo: Reuters)

NEW DELHI — India put several provinces on heightened alert on Thursday after al Qaeda announced the formation of a wing of the militant group in India and its neighborhood, a senior government official said.

In a video posted online, al Qaeda chief Ayman al-Zawahri promised to spread Islamic rule and "raise the flag of jihad" across the "Indian subcontinent."

New Delhi regards the message as authentic and has warned local governments, said an official who attended a security briefing in which it was discussed with Home Minister Rajnath Singh, who is responsible for policing and internal security.

"This matter has been taken very seriously," the official told Reuters. "An alert has been sounded."

Indian security forces are usually on a state of alert for attacks by home-grown Islamist militants and by anti-India groups based in Pakistan. It was not immediately clear what additional steps were being taken.

Until now there has been no evidence that al Qaeda, the group responsible for the Sept. 11, 2001, airliner attacks on New York's World Trade Center, has a presence in India.

The timing and content of the video suggests rivalry between al Qaeda and its more vigorous rival in Syria and Iraq, Islamic State, which anecdotal evidence suggests is gathering support in South Asia.

According to media reports, Islamic State pamphlets have been distributed in Pakistan in recent days.

"Al Qaeda has seen its authority eroded by the fact that it is no longer able to independently carry out large-scale attacks anywhere in the world, and by the emergence of rival factions," Omar Hamid, head of Asia analysis at security research firm IHS Country Risk, wrote in a report.

Al Qaeda's establishment of a local branch seeks to take advantage of the planned withdrawal of US-led forces from Afghanistan, which may lead to an influx of battle-hardened militants into India, Hamid added.

The SITE monitoring service quoted AQIS spokesman Usama Mahmoud as saying the group's goals include "waging jihad against America and the 'system of global disbelief,' and uprooting it, in order to establish Sharia-based governance," according to an audio speech.

It also sought to "revive the Caliphate on the prophetic methodology," SITE said, in a possible challenge to the Caliphate announced by the Islamic State.

Modi Heartland

Zawahri's announcement made two references to Gujarat, the home state of India's Prime Minister Narendra Modi, a Hindu nationalist.

Modi has long been a hate figure for Islamist groups because of religious riots in 2002 when he was chief minister of the state. More than 1,000 people, mainly Muslims, died in the spasm of violence.

"In the wake of this al Qaeda video, we will be on a higher alert," S.K. Nanda, the senior bureaucrat in the home department of Gujarat, told Reuters. A high security alert in the state involves activating informer networks in sensitive areas.

A senior police official said that Gujarat has been high on the list of militant organizations, including al Qaeda, since the 2002 riots. "It will be more so now because Narendra Modi is prime minister," the official said, requesting anonymity.

Zawahri described the formation of "Al Qaeda in the Indian Subcontinent" as glad tidings for Muslims "in Burma, Bangladesh, Assam, Gujarat, Ahmedabad, and Kashmir" and said the new wing would rescue Muslims there from injustice and oppression.

Ahmedabad is the main city in Gujarat state, which borders India's arch-rival, Pakistan.

Assam is a state in India's far-flung northeast where religious tensions are high after massacres of Muslims by tribal populations in the past two years. A senior intelligence officer in the state said security forces there were "well prepared" to face any threats.

Muslims make up 15 percent of the Indian population but, numbering an estimated 175 million, theirs is the third-largest Muslim population in the world.

Tensions between Hindus and Muslims on the subcontinent have grown since Pakistan was carved from Muslim-majority areas of India in 1947, a violent partition in which hundreds of thousands were killed.

Kashmir, which is claimed by both India and Pakistan, has long attracted foreign mujahideen fighters as well as home-grown separatist militants. In June, al Qaeda released a video urging young radicals in Kashmir to draw inspiration from militants in Syria and Iraq and join the "global jihad."

The All India Muslim Majlise Mushawarat, an umbrella body of mainstream Muslim organizations, vowed to fight al Qaeda if it appeared in India. "Indian Muslims are loyal citizens of their country and they will fight al Qaeda if it ever tried to create a presence here," said the group's president Zafarul-Islam Khan.

Intelligence sources in Indian-held Kashmir told Reuters on Thursday that they had so far detected no trace of al Qaeda in the Himalayan region that borders Pakistan and China.

The appearance of Islamic State flags at recent protest rallies in Kashmir was the work of an individual and did not point to any involvement of the group there, one said.

India has suffered several large-scale attacks by Islamist militants, most recently the 2008 Mumbai rampage by Pakistani fighters that left 166 people dead.

Smaller domestic militant groups regularly detonate small bombs, but have so far failed to launch a major attack. Earlier this year, Indian intelligence agencies said a handful of Indian men had joined the militancy in the Levant, among the first known cases of Indians joining foreign jihad.

Hindu nationalist groups sympathetic to Modi have stirred sectarian tension in recent weeks, claiming there is an Islamist conspiracy to seduce Hindu women and convert them to Islam.

At one of the world's most influential Islamic seminaries, Darul Uloom Deoband, in northern India, an official said that extremist groups routinely try to recruit young, uneducated and poor Muslim boys as militants.

"We inform our students about the dangers faced by Islam, and rising militancy is one of the key subjects discussed in the seminary," said Ashraf Usmani from the seminary, which is known for its conservative Muslim thought.

"I can say this with confidence that no student from Deoband can be recruited by al Qaeda or any other terror groups."

Additional reporting by Fayaz Bukhari in Srinagar and Biswajyoti Das in Guwahati.

The post Indian States on Alert After al Qaeda Announces Local Wing appeared first on The Irrawaddy Magazine.

Democratic Voice of Burma

Democratic Voice of Burma


A sight for sore eyes

Posted: 06 Sep 2014 12:09 AM PDT

Burma is home to tens of thousands of cataract sufferers. The condition is the most common cause of blindness in the world, yet a simple surgery can restore sight in most cases.

In a country where crippling poverty pushes medical services out of reach, eight percent of people in rural areas are blind. For two-thirds of those, the cause is cataracts, or a clouding of the eye's lens.Burma has only 200 working ophthalmologists, most of whom operate in Rangoon and Mandalay. That has left Burma with a backlog of 600,000 cataract operations, according to Australian NGO the Razco Eye Foundation.

Now, a team of Chinese doctors is in Rangoon to restore sight to some of those people.

The team is part of an initiative organised by the China Foundation for Peace and Development in cooperation with Myanmar Alinyaung. Together, since 2011, they have worked to restore sight to thousands of visually impaired people in Burma.

The medical team is from China's southern Yunnan Province and is currently conducting free eye operations in Rangoon.

One patient, 71-year-old Htay Kyi, was overjoyed at having her vision returned to her.

"I was blind but now I can see. I am so grateful to this organisation and to my country," she said.

The Myanmar Alinyaung foundation is overseen by Burma's ruling Union Solidarity and Development Party (USDP). After replacing Than Shwe's military junta as Burma's government in 2010, the party has consistently produced budgets by which military spending dwarfs funds for health.

In 2014, the USDP spent just 3.38 percent of Burma's budget on health. That is compared to 29 percent splurged on the military.

But now, some within the ruling party say they believe that clearing cataracts could improve the party's image in the lead up to next year's general election.

“I think that this programme could help our party achieve victory in one way or another, although this is not our main objective here,” said Dr Nay Lin, who is both the head of Myanmar Alinyaung and a USDP parliamentary representative for Rangoon.

Whatever the motivation, this latest initiative, which began on Thursday and will run until 7 September, is a blessing for each of the 200 patients who will receive treatment.

Burmese doctors will also be trained to perform cataract surgeries across the country. They hope to enable as many people as possible to see their loved ones again.

Burmese Muslims reject ‘morally repugnant’ Al-Qaeda

Posted: 05 Sep 2014 11:23 PM PDT

The Burmese Muslim Association (BMA) has vehemently condemned a statement by Al-Qaeda leader Ayman al Zawahiri in which he announced an intention to launch an active cell in the Indian subcontinent and Burma.

"Burmese Muslim Association vehemently condemns the statement of the Al-Qaeda leader who threatened Burma in his latest video," the group said in a statement on 5 September. "The marginalised minority Muslims in Burma will never accept any help from a terrorist organisation, which is in principle a disgrace and morally repugnant."

The BMA also lashed out at the Islamic State of Iraq and Syria, or ISIS, saying its "inhumane actions are totally contrary to Islamic beliefs and teachings."

In a 55-minute video on Wednesday, Egyptian cleric Zawahiri announced Al-Qaeda's intention of launching of a new cell called “Qaedat al-Jihad”, which would be active in Burma and the Indian subcontinent with the aim of expanding jihad to the region.

Zawahiri tops the most wanted terrorist list in the US, with a US$25 million bounty for his apprehension.

The BMA immediately disassociated themselves from Zawahiri's comments and said they rejected terrorism.

"Muslims are fully integrated into the fabric of Burmese society and belong and support the Burmese nation," BMA said. "The Burmese Muslims will not tolerate any threat to their motherland. The Muslims in Burma have proved their loyalty to the country throughout the history of Burma with exceptional bravery and with tremendous courage."

Calling for peaceful coexistence and human rights in Burma, the London-based Muslim organisation also noted its concern at the "silence" of religious organisations and political parties in Burma while Muslims in the country face "ethnic cleansing".

It called on the Burmese government to stop supporting extremist Buddhist organisations that are promoting anti-Muslim hatred.

Meanwhile, Burmese newspaper Daily Eleven cited an anonymous official at the President's Office in Naypyidaw stating that Burma, or Myanmar, is cooperating with other governments in the region and around the globe to prevent terrorist attacks by al-Qaeda through an early warning system and the sharing of information on the group’s activities.

Village near Bagan evacuated as Irrawaddy floods

Posted: 05 Sep 2014 09:58 PM PDT

A village near the ancient site of Bagan in central Burma has been evacuated due to flooding after the Irrawaddy River burst its banks.

Local authorities said that 1,066 people from 265 households were evacuated, along with 342 cows and five horses, from the village of Sae Lan in Nyaung-U district on 3 September.

"We began relocating villagers as soon as the river began overflowing," said Nyaung-U administrator Tin Htoo Maung. "Some people insisted on staying to protect their homes. But after the water reached thigh level, we made sure that everyone was moved out."

Sae Lan is an island on the Irrawaddy, located 35km downstream from Pakokku, and only a few miles north of the bend in the river where the ancient kingdom of Bagan [formerly Pagan] and its thousand-year-old Buddhist temples are situated.

Tin Htoo Maung said that the evacuated villagers have been given shelter in a monastery in nearby Taung Be, where local philanthropists have arrived to offer supplies.

"There is a government clinic at the monastery, and various groups and individuals have come forward with donations, including food," said Ko Min Naing, a representative of a Bagan civil society group.

As of Friday, water levels had dropped below danger level, and hopes were high that the villagers could be sent home in the coming days.

National News

National News


Merkel vows backing for Myanmar in return for minority rights

Posted: 05 Sep 2014 09:10 PM PDT

Chancellor Angela Merkel on Wednesday pledged further economic support for Myanmarif it holds fair elections next year and does more to protect ethnic minorities.

Al-Qaeda declares new branch in Indian sub-continent

Posted: 05 Sep 2014 09:08 PM PDT

Al-Qaeda chief Ayman al-Zawahiri declared Wednesday in a video message that the global Islamist extremist movement has launched a new branch to lead its struggle in the Indian sub-continent.

Ministry to expand e-visa to more nations, airports

Posted: 05 Sep 2014 08:59 PM PDT

The Ministry of Immigration and Population plans to expand a recently introduced electronic visa system.

Committee to finalise constitution change bill

Posted: 05 Sep 2014 08:39 PM PDT

Members of a parliamentary committee set up to draft amendments to the constitution will meet in Nay Pyi Taw on September 8 to finalise a bill to submit to parliament during the session that begins this week.

Fire engines attend fire without water

Posted: 05 Sep 2014 08:11 PM PDT

Residents helped put out a fire with water from their own homes in Pyinmana last week when fire engines called to a blaze found they had no water.

MPs reject homeless housing proposal

Posted: 05 Sep 2014 08:05 PM PDT

Yangon parliament has rejected a proposal to build affordable housing – even though the cost was only twice as much as YCDC plans to spend on billboards.

Shan Herald Agency for News

Shan Herald Agency for News


Putao: Myanmar’s treasure house of ethnic diversity

Posted: 06 Sep 2014 06:29 AM PDT

Reinhard Hohler, Chiang Mai (14.08.2014)

Nearly every traveler to Thailand knows the "Golden Triangle", where Myanmar, Lao PDR and the Kingdom of Thailand border together. Geographically, this is an area that widely reaches into the Shan State of Myanmar, includes the provinces of Northern Laos such as Luang Nam Tha and Phong Sali and also comprises the whole of Northern Thailand with Mae Hong Son, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai und Nan. This is the home of the hill tribes, which traditionally produced opium and practiced shifting cultivation.

Lesser well known is "The Triangle", which marks the area, where Myanmar, China und India meet. Since some time now it is possible to travel to this border area in the uppermost Northern Myanmar, but important to do this is that you need to have a special permit.

In the middle of July, in the midst of the rainy season, I had the chance to travel to "The Triangle" to see, if also in this region the hill tribes produce opium, such as they use to do along the Chinese border in Myanmar's Shan State. To follow media reports, the drug trade in Myanmar is still surging, while in Thailand und also Laos the production of opium was successfully eliminated.

To Putao it is only possible to travel by airplane, but in the office of Air Bagan in Chiang Mai it is not possible to directly buy a ticket to there, because it is necessary to have a permit for travel to Putao. Thus, I flew on July 13 first to Yangon (300US return) to apply a special permit for Putao via an old friend Mr. Rakwi Pung, a Rawang from Putao, who was once Managing Director of Snowland Travel & Tours and now retired being 70 years old.

After many days of waiting, I then received the special permit on July 20 via e-mail to be able to travel to Putao. As a tourist and in company of an American couple it was necessary to book a package tour with a licensed guide. The package tour swallowed 1859USD per person to include all flights and meals and cover 2 nights in a guesthouse in Putao as well as a 5 day trekking tour to the hill tribe villages, namely Lisu, who also live in Northern Thailand. The permit was issued by the Myanmar Government, namely by the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism in Nay Pyi Taw. 

On July 22, we then flew with Air Bagan from Yangon via Mandalay and Myitkyina to Putao, what altogether lasted 4 hours. To Putao some 13 passengers were on board with us only as foreign tourists. At the airport in Putao we were well received by some immigration officials and had to give them 9 passport and visa copies each. After that our guide Ahyin, an English speaking Rawang from Myanmar Frontier Travel & Tours, drove us in a Pajero car to one of the guesthouses in Putao called "Htawan Razi". In the same-named restaurant opposite the market we then had our dinner - Chinese style.

For planning the next days, we met in town with a so-called "Lisu Cultural Committee", several old men, who invited us to their villages, where all were Christians. The Lisu possess a so-called bible script, which had been especially developed by an English missionary in China in the 1920's. Most of the Christians of the Lisu here in Putao belong to the "Church of Christ" and learn in special bible schools. The following Lisu villages were visited: Mulashidi, Muladi, Pamati, Mansakun, Sitilaw, Pangkhaing, und Dagushu Tsar. "Homestay" was organized and it was possible to learn more about, how intimate life was in a village. About opium, nobody seemed to know anything. A good Christian also does not drink alcohol.

I took enough time to explore Putao, which was called Hkamti Long ("Golden Place") in the past. Commercial and social centre was the daily market, which is open from 6.00 o'clock in the morning to 17.00 o'clock in the evening. A small street heads north to Lisu villages and muddy tracks lead to the distant icy mountains, which only carry snow in the winter months. The main street to the east heads from the elevation, where Putao is located, down to the plain of the wet rice valley (Nam Tun) of the Buddhist Hkamti Tai farmers and to the airport and from there farther to the township of Machanbaw, a settlement, where mainly Jinghpaw people live. The street is asphalted and sometimes pebbled - only some 3m wide – and ends at a suspension bridge 14 miles on at the Malikha River, which separates Machanbaw from Putao. It is possible in the dry season to take a boat upriver towards Nam Khan and visit a large Rawang village, where the American missionary Robert Morse had lived several years in the 1950's and started growing citrus trees there. To continue towards China is no more possible, but there is an active smuggle of mainly Mahogany trees from here into China.

At the airport splits another main road towards the south through the jungle to reach first Mulashidi, where you can still see the abandoned compound of the large Morse family clan, who lived here until 1965. Right at the Mula River there also was built the luxury Malikha Lodge, but which is closed now to renovate during the rainy season. The Myanmar Government is building now a solid stone bridge there, because the bad and muddy road leads via Sumprabum farther to Myitkyina, the capital of Kachin State. For that, vehicles need around 3 days so far.

Before you leave Putao, you can see on top of the elevation the impressive Roman Catholic St. Anthony Church, where the Jinghpaw priest "Peter" does the services every Sunday. He gave me a new printed book, telling about the 500 years old history of the Catholic Church in Myanmar (1514-2014).

From the market in the south direction you pass the offices of the airlines, which nowadays fly to Putao: Yangon Airways, Asian Wings Airways, Air Bagan, and Golden Myanmar Airlines. Together with the stately Myanma Airlines, they all regularly supply Putao with Myanmar Beer and other necessities from Myitkyina. But except only a few open guesthouses to cater to tourists, there is nothing else to find.

There also is a temporary office of the UNDP organization, where I could find some important and new data about Putao:  

Putao Township is 2,105 square miles large und has some 82,806 inhabitants. Within the countryside 14 village wards are counted and altogether there are some 83 villages.

Putao borders are near India in the west and reaches near towards Tibet in the north and Yunnan in the east. Actually, the town is located some 500m high and has a subtropical climate, a little bit comparable with Mae Hong Son in Thailand. The distance south towards Myitkyina is 218 miles, but Myitkyina is normally only reachable in the dry season.

There is wet rice in the plain and dry rice in the mountains. Citrus trees and vegetables in the house gardens are very popular. Pigs, chicken, goats, cattle, water buffaloes and transport horses abound. The villagers look and gather herbal medicine plants, washing gold in the rivers, hunt in the forests and produce charcoal for their homes. Bartering is common. Electricity is on only 5 hours in the evenings per day. The ethnic composition is: 8,69% Jinghpaw, 31,91% Rawang, 50,79% Lisu and 7,17% Hkamti Tai (Shan). Burmese here are only 0,78%, mainly police and military. 

The ethnic diversity is obvious, but as mainly all the hill tribes are Christians and dress in common Burmese cloths, there is not much local color in Putao. Only during festival times, the several hill tribes wear their costumes. Also, most of the villages are mixed and stick together by marriage contacts. I was told that most of the villagers took the Christian religion - except the Buddhist Hkamti Tai – when there was a deadly and devastating earthquake in nearby Assam/India in the year of 1950.

Health problems arise in the form of malaria und respiratory diseases. There is 1 Public Hospital,  but in the same time 77 Primary Schools, 4 Middle Schools, 2 State High Schools and 1 Public Library. Also, there is a prison with circa 40 inmates at the moment (Lisu und Rawang).

Finally, it is interesting to note that in the western neighboring area of Putao in the direction to India there are valuable amber mines, which are already used and worked economically.

Putao is indeed a kind of Shangri-La in Myanmar, which is crowned by a chain of mountains, of whom Hkakabo Razi with 5,889m seems the highest one - at the border to Tibet in China. Interesting to note is that there are nearly no Indians or Chinese in Putao. The old British bastion called "Fort Hertz" is seen lonely, burnt out and abandoned on a small hill overlooking the broad valley of the Hkamti Tai in the north of Putao. Nearby is also a worth seeing museum exhibiting the local flora and fauna of the Khakabo Razi National Park, which is already an ASEAN heritage site. It is sponsored by the Ministry of Environmental Conservation & Forestry. Another "cultural museum" about the Rawang people is in the making.

Khakabo Razi National Park is located in Naungmung, the northernmost township in Kachin State in Myanmar, and was established in 1996 for eco-tourism activities and has the following to offer:

Forests include evergreen trees, hill pines, and are moist upper mixed deciduous forests. In addition to rare species such as takin, musk deer, blue sheep, and black barking deer, there are a lot of insects and butterflies. Climbing snow-capped mountains and studying the environmental impact at the origin of the mighty Ayeyarwady River system is best. The "black orchid" is a botanical wonder. Last but not least, the culture and living of the local tribes, such as the Rawang, Lisu and other Myanmar-Tibetan tribes, makes Putao an important entry gate into one of the last paradises on earth.
 
On July 29, we had to leave Putao by plane back to Myitkyina, where we visited the 45km far distant confluence of the Malikha and N'Maikha Rivers - in Myitsone, where the Ayeyarwady River starts and the Chinese still plan to construct a large dam. Also here, there are the different villages of the Kachin tribes, which one can see and study in the Kachin State Cultural Museum. The Kachin have been mainly converted since hundred years by the Baptist Church and the following 6 tribes are actually Kachin: Jinghpaw, Law Waw, Rawang, Lachik, Zai Wa, and Lisu. The Lisu immigrated from Yunnan Nujiang in Western China and settled down in Myanmar as the last ones. In Myitkyina, there is also the central headquarters of the new Lisu National Development Party - showing a crossbow on the party flag.

Lisu villages can then be seen in Waingmaw, a township opposite Myitkyina on the eastern side of the Ayeyarwady River. The small town is also an active trading ground for goods, which reach Myanmar from across the border in China. An alleged very good road leads from here towards the Chinese border and then over a pass to Tengchong in Yunnan, where jade from Hpakant will be delivered and worked on. 

After a two-year stop because of the rebel activities of the Kachin Independence Army (KIA), the annual festival of the "Manao" in Myitkyina will now be revived again, where all the Kachin tribes will meet within a cultural park. This will happen on January 10, 2015. Thus, there will be a reason to come back to Myitkyina and travel within the pacified Kachin State again.

Besides the airport in the western part of Myitkyina, it is possible to travel by train from Yangon via Mandalay to the town or take a new highway directly from Mandalay in the south. Furthermore, you can take the government boat from Mandalay to Bhamo on the Ayeyarwady River - some 4 days - and then board a bus from Bhamo to Myitkyina in order to cross the bridge in the north of the town. This all proves that Kachin State has a great potential in the future for welcoming the surging tourist arrivals in Myanmar.

After 3 nights at the New Light Hotel in Myitkyina (included in the package) I flew back on August 1 via Mandalay back to Yangon and on Sunday finally back to Chiang Mai.

In the upcoming tourist season (Oktober-April), Asian Wings Airways plans to fly directly from Chiang Mai to Mandalay and return. This makes a stay in Yangon not necessary and brings traveling to Kachin State even nearer than until now. The necessary tourist visa for Myanmar (28 days) you can get with the help of a travel agency in Chiang Mai (Nam Khong) for 2,500Baht, what normally takes 4-5 days time.      

For further information, please contact GMS Media Travel Consultant Reinhard Hohler based in Chiang Mai/Thailand by e-mail: sara@cmnet.co.th